Where to eat in the Algarve, Portugal

Restaurante Navegador in Lagos

It's not very often that a restaurant right in the heart of a town has everything going for it but the “Navegador”, situated at the end of the narrow Rua da Barroca in Lagos, does seem to tick all the boxes. It is hidden away on a quiet corner, next to a major car park with spectacular views from the upper floors over the river to the Marina and beaches beyond but, probably, most important is the excellent food and the welcome you will always receive from the friendly and attentive staff.

Although it's obvious when you know where to look, it is not always easy to spot the “Navegador” for the first time.  From the main car park on the Avenida, just lift your eyes up to the original old town above the car park wall and look for the name.  There is a flight of steps hidden in the wall just below the restaurant and, once up these steps, the restaurant entrance is just to your left.

Restaurante Navegador has a few tables outside for open air dining when the weather permits (it can get a bit breezy, although in the height of summer ,this is a real advantage).  Inside the restaurant, dining is on three levels.  On the ground floor, there is the large open stainless steel kitchen and a well stocked bar.  The tables on the ground floor are not crowded together and most have views of the river, the Marina and Meia Praia.  A large mezzanine floor is above and further up still, is the enclosed terrace which, at night, gives an incredible vista of the town and marina lights.

At your table the first thing you notice is the real table linen and sparkling glassware, (this is not a plastic cloth and paper napkin place).  Extensive menus and the wine list appear almost immediately and drinks orders are taken.

On our last visit, we were feeling a bit lazy and just asked for a “house red” to enjoy while we decided on our meal.  The wine is “own label” and tells us nothing of its origins but we were pleasantly surprised by the quality and full bodied flavour.  Having read Martin Ward's articles on Portuguese wines and attended a number of his wine tasting weekends (now there's something to recommend, but that's another story! ) we decided it was an Alentejo wine, with hints of Touriga Nationale, Trincaderia and Aragonez. (See Martin, we hadn't dozed off)

Covers for two at €3 provided a basket of three types of bread, carrots, garlic and oil, sardine pate and butter and we tucked into these while deciding on what to have.  The menu is extensive with fish, vegetable or onion soups all at €3, salads for the same, with pates and smoked fish at up to €6.50.

Main courses include every fish you can think of, with many in house specials like monkfish and fruit (the owners own recipe), all for between €9-14.  The meats include pork, lamb and steak dishes, again, many to the owner's recipe like “Tournedos a Capitao” a delicious fillet steak with a ham, apple, mushroom, cream and brandy sauce.

By the time we had decided, we had consumed the covers and went straight into a main course choice of Tournedos a Capitão and Tournedos Pimentão, another special of fillet steak with a green pepper cream and brandy sauce.  These were offered with either a salad bowl or the days vegetables which were green beans and carrots and either chips or boiled potatoes.

The meals arrived and looked superb, large steaks big enough for anyone's appetite, a huge bowl of mixed salad and an equally large bowl of chips.  The meals were superb, and were complimented by the excellent house wine.  By the time we had finished the steak meals we were ready to call it a day, however the “attentive staff” turns out to be the owner, and he is keen to know what we thought of his creations.  Our empty plates were evidence enough of what we thought but, having commented on the fresh salad and very tasty meat, he goes on to tell us that all his ingredients are purchased from local suppliers.  He has used the same local butcher for years and there is an understanding of the quality that the Navegador requires.  The fish is bought daily, (hardly surprising given the proximity of the dock) and all the greens are fresh from the local markets.

He is rightly proud of his meals, but when we said we were full and didn't want a dessert, he said his mother would be very disappointed if we didn't try her “fig pudding”.  Well what can you do ? You can't disappoint a little old lady!

While the fig pudding was being prepared we took a look at the other desserts on offer.  There is a wide selection and not just the usual pre-prepared ice cream sweets that are so often offered.  Fresh fruit crepes and flambés, fruit tarts and cakes are all there at between €3.5 and €7.5.

Well, the fig pudding (at €3.5 and described as Queijo figo on the menu - ?? cheese fig) arrived and there was nothing cheesy about this.  The pudding was shaped like a small Christmas pudding, set on a s/steel dish with flaming medronho filling the dish and covering the pudding.  We were warned to let the flames die naturally before starting and it sure was worth the wait.  Wow, this is the best! This is better than any Christmas pudding we ever tasted.  The owner's mother should market this, it's that good, a definite treat for the next time we go to Navegador.

By now we were well and truly satisfied.  Coffees at €1.5 were ordered and arrived with complimentary glasses of port and a dish of Rombolatina (giant chocolate Smarties).

The cost for all this?  €43, well spent for a superb meal.  We are sure to go again, if only for the figgy pudding.

Jackie and Tony                                            February 2007

Restaurante Navegador ( Local Tel .282 767 162)

If you would like to know more about Portuguese Food and Drink, why don't you dip into our Restaurants in the Algarve section and our series of articles on Portuguese Wines and Ports.  We also feature some Traditional Portuguese Recipes and a glossary of useful Portuguese food & drink words and phrases

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