Located in Southern Portugal, the Alentejo is our March region to visit & discover - a region that is very well suited to the production of fine wines.  The region is one that is covered in vast vineyards, extending across the flat plains, under a blazing sun that ripens the grapes perfectly.  The Alentejo region has great historical wealth and a well-preserved architectural heritage.   In addition to this its rural areas have excellent environmental conditions; a diverse countryside and stunning natural reserves.

Mentioning briefly the region's gastronomy; this is extremely varied, with pronounced, rich flavours. Local specialities are the `migas' and the `açorda' - a dish and soup made with local bread, olive-oil, coriander and other ingredients; lamb stew, tomato soup, gaspacho, dog-fish soup, sarapatel - a `sort of haggis' made from a pork-offal-river-fish stew; various garlic sausages, cheeses and a wide range of desserts, often prepared from recipes handed down from the convents.

The Alentejo wine production includes fruity whites, crisp and often with an intense bouquet, and reds with a fruity, fresh bouquet and rich, smooth, balanced flavours.  There are six main grape varieties that set the tone for the wines of the Alentejo - three whites:

Roupeiro

This is the main white variety of the viticultural areas.  The vine blossoms in the second half of March and ripens in the second half of September and the variety produces an average yield and its bunches are small and pyramid shaped.  The grapes are small, uniformly shaped obovoids, pointed and yellow.  The pulp is succulent and when young, the wine has a fine, balanced aroma and is lemon coloured.

Rabo de Ovelha

The second most prolific variety in the Borba, Redondo and Reguengos viticultural areas, this vine again blossoms in late March and ripens mid to late September.  Its profile is one of big leaves with long, rectilinear teeth and a very open petiolar pith; the bunches are average in size, cylindrical/conical in shape with uniform, small, round grapes.  Production of this variety is typically inconsistent, producing a large amount of juice and a less fruity, slightly acidic wine.

Antao Vaz

The one single variety which is greatly appreciated and recognised by many of the Alentejo oenologists.  This is the second most important variety in the viticultural areas of Vidigueira and of Évora.  It is unusual in that it has some resistance to drought which makes it well adapted to the normal climatic conditions of the region.  The bunches are average in size, cylindrical/conical in shape and ripen evenly; the grapes are usually very small, and have an even, egg shape.  The wine is generally lemon coloured, has a fine and singular, personalised and persistent, aroma and a slightly sharp taste, with body and harmony in the aftertaste.

….. and three reds:

Periquita

This is the most important variety in nearly all the viticultural areas.  Ripening occurs in the first week of September but after the Aragonez and Trincadeira varieties.  The bunches are small and have a winged pyramid shape and the grapes smallish, of varying sizes with a heavy powder covering; they are truly blue black in colour.  Wine from this grape variety has little colour in the free-run juice and has a mild aroma, fruity taste with a smooth finish.

Trincadeira

One of Alentejo's main varieties, this grape has an important place in all of the Portalegre, Borba, Redondo, Reguengos and Évora areas and distinguishes the wine where it dominates.  Blossoming occurs in the second half of March but ripening is extremely early. The bunches are large, conical and winged with small, round grapes that again are blue-black with a heavy powder covering.  The wines have an intense colour, a fruity but characteristically herbaceous aroma, which is also apparent on the taste and is often rich in tannins.  Therefore they are wines with alcohol, structure and a capacity for ageing.

Aragonez

Considered to be a much improved variety here in the Alentejo, it is most dominant in the viticultural areas of Portalegre and Évora.  Blossoming is in the second half of March, the onset of ripening at the end of July and full ripening at the beginning of September.  The bunches are average sized, cylindrical and conical in shape, with small, slightly `flattened' grapes.  The wine is fresh with a characteristic taste and aroma, is a very rich dark red in colour and achieves both body and tannin, with a great potential for maturing.  You may not recognise this variety's name but you will, knowingly or not, probably have drunk it - under its synonyms of 'Tinta Roriz' in the Douro region and the famous 'Tempranillo' in Spain.

There are about 13,500 hectares of vineyards in the Alentejo, which corresponds to just 5% of the area devoted to the cultivation of the vine in the country as a whole.  These are found typically in the poorest soils of the region and include some old vines.  They are mainly found on the plains and sometimes on gently sloped land, except in the Portalegre sub-region where hillside vines can be seen and mainly facing the south.  The region's average production varies between 35 and 40hl/ha, as compared to the maximum limit defined in the statutes of the zonas vitivinícolas of 55hl/ha for the castas de uvas tintas and 60hl/ha for castas de uvas brancas

Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC).  The Alentejo has a very long tradition in the cultivation of vineyards which goes back to Roman times; ruins and other cultural remains bear witness to this.  However, the oldest known historical documents record that vineyards have been cultivated here since at least the beginning of National Independence.  There are a number of references to the exportation of Alentejo wines in the 17^th century to amongst others, India, Africa, Brazil & Flanders; this perhaps being before the export of 'Port Wine'.  The fact that a large amount of the wine which left Portugal then did come from the South is down to its intrinsic qualities, such as the intense colour and high alcoholic content.

After various changes in fortune, when areas were first planted and then cut back, by the 19^th century vineyards were spread through nearly all the Alentejo.  The total production was small considering the expanse of land involved.  In this century, which brought serious tribulations to the viticulture of all the Western European countries, devastation from the phylloxera louse was great and, as a result, the viticulturists became increasingly despondent.  The resulting discrediting of the Alentejo vineyards will certainly have led to the association with the olive groves, as can still be seen in some old vineyards here.

In the 20^th century, the Alentejo became recognised as a cereal growing region which further contributed significantly to the reduction of the area of vines being cultivated. Today, the vineyards are in areas of greater tradition and generally are small properties which are still able to maintain the quality which has always been appreciated.

Conversely, the founding of co-operatives, such as in 1958 in Borba, followed by Redondo in 1960, Portalegre in 1962, Vidigueira in 1963, Granja in 1965 and finally in Reguengos de Monsaraz in 1971, were the most important steps in the rejuvenation of Alentejan Viticulture. It is to their credit that the local wines of Alentejo became better cared for and known.

Alentejo Viticultural Regions

Portalegre

Borba

Redondo

Reguengos

Vidigueira

Évora

Granja/Amareleja

Moura

So, let me know what you think of the region's wines - they can be found very easily, both here in the UK and of course in-situ.

This month sees the annual generic tasting of Portuguese wines in London. I plan to be there, the things I have to do on my birthday (!), and will report back for you next month on my discoveries.

Martin Ward                Wine Educators International      www.wine-educators.com

A reminder of forthcoming events involving Portugal:

Friday 29^th June 2007 - Taste Portuguese wines at our Wine Weekend at Higham Hall, Bassenthwaite, Cumbria

Wednesday 18^th July - Taste Portuguese wines with Food at our Residential Wine & Food Matching Course at Dillington House, Ilminster, Somerset.

If you would like to know more about Portuguese Food and Drink, why don't you dip into our Restaurants in the Algarve section and our series of articles on Portuguese Wines and Ports.  We also feature some Traditional Portuguese Recipes and a glossary of useful Portuguese food & drink words and phrases

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